The Veal Trilogy: Volume 2
In this, the second of three instalments, I make "Veal Scallopini with Olive and Sundried Tomato Sauce". You will recall that in my previous post, I defined veal to the extent it can be, seeing as there is no strict definition. I also alluded to controversy surrounding the production of veal. To listen to those most vehemently opposed, you would think it was as if as Trump might describe it, the calf was “ripped from the mother’s womb”. Some context is needed. Veal in its most basic form is the consequence or by-product if you will, of milk production; to produce milk, cows must be made pregnant and give birth once a year. If a female, aka heifer is born, they will later join the milk herd replacing older cows. Males, aka bulls, on the other hand, are of little use. Only one bull is needed to service the herd, and even if one wanted to keep them, because of their aggressive nature, you cannot keep two or more together. Further, with advances in artificial insemination, there is no need to keep any bulls. What does one do then with all these bulls? Sell them to veal producers.
The controversy arises from how these bulls are raised before sending to market. Unfortunately, in some jurisdictions, stalls, as they are called by farmers, or veal crates as they are referred to by critics, are still used to prevent animals from turning around, in order to keep their muscles soft and unused which produces the pale, lean, tender meat characteristic of veal.
Sadly, Canada has yet to ban their use, although most Ontario veal producers committed to phasing these out by 2018 replacing these with group pens. This is voluntary at this point, but one can expect most to comply as retailers such as Costco, Metro, Sobeys, and Loblaw’s already prohibit their use in their supply chains. Is it possible to raise veal ethically? The answer in part depends on whether you consider eating meat at all moral. I do, but then I also eat foie gras, a discussion and maybe a blog in the future. The National Farm Animal Care Council (NFACC) has a Code of Practice for the Care and Handling of Veal Cattle as well as Dairy Cattle for those interested in learning more about the raising of veal in Canada.
Mise en place: Veal, cold butter, Chicken broth, olives and sun dried tomatoes, wine,
Sautéed veal. I have cropped so you dont see the cook top spatter!
Capellini cooked al dente (often mispronouned; it's not as in "Dante" the poet)
Final plating with pan sauce reduction with olives and sundried tomatoes.
A delicious Pinot to complement the meal. Notice the producer which seems appropriate given we are tandem riders ourselves!