The Veal Trilogy: Volume 1

Today I begin a three week journey exploring veal escalope as it is known in France, and piccata in Italian. Both escalope and piccata refer to a very thin slice of meat (or fish). Confusion arises in that while piccata refers to a thin slice in Italian, it is also a specific preparation of veal, i.e. Veal Piccata, which is prepared by dusting veal in flour, quickly sautéing it, and using the pan drippings to create a pan sauce with lemon and parsley.

Because veal is low in fat and easily overcooked, moist cooking is best so as not to dry it out. Sautéing is one of the classic methods of preparing veal, and the one which I plan to use for three variations over the next weeks starting today with the aforementioned Veal Piccata.

Before I begin, what defines veal? According to Barron’s “Food Lovers Companion” (a must own for any serious foodie), it has no precise definition. In general, it refers to a 1-3 month old calf. Milk-fed veal refers to calves that have not been weaned, and is the most delicately textured veal, creamy white with a pale greyish-pink tinge.

Veal can also be formula-fed, and is up to 4 months old. It is not as delicate or rich, as the formula doesn’t contain milk fat. Lastly, baby beef is 6-12 months old with a stronger flavour and colour pink to light red. True veal should never be fed grain or grass, as that darkens the meat. Having said that, most if not all veal raised in my home province of Ontario is grain fed while in the province of Quebec, the United States and Europe, farmers also raise what is called milk-fed veal.

To be worth the cost and effort of cooking, it is critical that the veal be of high quality. This in part can be gleaned from its colour. In my view the best is milk fed. Aside from being creamy white, its fat should be white, and its texture firm, finely grained, and smooth. The less pink and the more red it is, the older the veal is; I suggest you just buy yourself another cut of meat as otherwise, I am sure you will be disappointed.

EDIT- May 2023: As I have gleaned more about veal production, it would appear Red is the new White. White-fleshed veal had been considered by many, including me, to be better than darker-coloured veal. However, I have learned that this darker veal referred to as rosé veal, red veal, or grain-fed veal can be just as good.

Calves for rosé veal are generally fed a more “normal” diet consisting of both milk and cereal-based feed, without restriction of iron intake. The higher iron content creates meat that is darker in colour. While it isn’t the deep red of older, full-grown beef, it is definitively redder than white veal. Raising veal in this way is promoted as being “more ethical”. However, although these calves may have a healthier diet, they may still be reared in low welfare systems.

I hope your interest is piqued, and you will read the next instalment in a few days time, when in fairness, I must discuss the controversy surrounding veal.

Mise en place: Clarified butter and canola (my go to oil: high smoke point with good flavour), a little garlic, chicken broth (can use veal broth), dry white wine, lemon juice and lemon, capers, and parsley.

Veal seasoned with salt and pepper (freshly ground of course!) then lightly flowered.

After veal cooked, it was removed from pan and a pan sauce made by deglazing with wine, broth added and reduced, lemon and juice added to taste. Finished off with some capers and parsley.

Final plating garnished with a little parsley. A bit sloppy (blame the wine), but that didn't detract from its taste!