Pommes Soufflées: v 2.0
So having lots of time on hand with self isolation, I thought I would revisit Pommes Soufflée (see post: “Pommes Soufflée: v 1.0”). Instead of cooking by traditional method as described in my original post, I wanted to try a modernist take on this classic potato preparation. To briefly summarize the traditional technique, these are a potato puffs created by slicing starchy potatoes 3-4mm thick, frying at 150 °C to seal the surface while keeping the inside moist, and then dropping into a second pot of oil at 190 °C (375 °F). This causes the hot water in the middle to instantly vaporize puffing the slice into a potato balloon. As the puff continues to fry, it crisps preventing it from collapsing. Once nicely browned they are served immediately, seasoned with salt +/- a dip such as aioli.
I don't know if Chef Daniel Clifford is the originator of this newer recipe, but it was on the 2012 menu of his 2 star Michelin restaurant, Midsummer House in Cambridge England. Instead of a single 3-4mm slice, this uses two 1mm slices. One side is lightly dusted in corn starch and the other lightly coated with an egg white wash. The two coated sides are lightly pressed together and then cut to shape with a cookie cutter. The discs are briefly dried presumably to reduce sputtering in the hot oil, and also for the edges to dry sufficiently that they stay stuck together when frying. Frying is at 140C° / 284F°, a lower temperature than the single slice method. With the edges sealed, in between the slices water vapour puffs the potato as in the single slice method.
You can create a tiny hole in these and fill with a savoury cream or foam, but I just ate them with a little truffle salt. They were crisp and yummy, but a little fussy to make. And just like the original method, I didn't get 100% puffing. Would I do it again? Yes, but it isn't ready for prime time, so don't expect it yet for my next dinner party!
Mandoline slicer set to just less than 1mm.
You can use corn starch or if you prefer Kudzu (aka Kuzu or Japanese arrowroot) which has a more neutral flavour. Ideally though, I think potato starch would be best seeing this is a potato recipe.
Top to bottom: two slices coated with egg white and corn starch, two slice applied to one another, disc cut out ready to slightly dry and fry.
Canola oil brought to 140C° / 284F°
Puffed potato on paper towel ready to salt. Alternatively you can fill with foam or other savoury.
Ready to eat!
One should eat in single bite, but here I took off a bit so as to show the hollow interior and thin crisp walls.