Burgers with Dry-Aged Beef Trimmings

From my previous posts on dry aging (DA) bone in Rib-eye and Beef tenderloin , you will recall that in DA, a crust or bark forms on the outside of the beef which forms a natural barrier slowing down water loss. The formal name for this dried outer meat and fat layer is the pellicle and has to be trimmed away at the end of the ageing process as it is tough, not unlike beef jerky. However, it is packed with umami and concentrated beef flavours. That and its unique texture can enhance a variety of dishes when finely chopped or ground and added to:

Steak Sauces and Gravies
Meatballs and Meatloaf
Charcuterie (e.g. pâtés and terrines)
Savoury Stuffings (especially stuffing mixtures for poultry or pork)
Soup Stock, Broth, and Stews
Dry Rub for grilled meats
Chopped as a topping for salads or garnish
Finely chop and use them as a savory seasoning for vegetables

I can’t say that I have tried all these, but I have added ground pellicle to fresh ground beef for hamburgers and can vouch for and highly recommend this use!

But before discussing this application, it might be helpful to review some basics when it comes to grinding hamburger meat. These include the types of meat one can use, the ideal fat content, the benefits of incorporating dry-aged beef pellicle, and choosing a grinder plate size

Disclaimer -Throughout this blog, I describe fat % as though it were the primary determinate for juiciness. This is not entirely correct; although important and a major contributor, many other factors play in to what we perceive as juiciness. Those interested are referred to this excellent article by “Meathead”, founder and publisher of the superb website AmazingRibs.com. (In this same article he also dispels the myth of the need to rest steaks after cooking!)

Types of Meat

Chuck: This is the classic choice for hamburger meat. Chuck comes from the shoulder area of the cow and offers a great balance of meat and fat, around 20% fat. It’s flavourful, relatively tender, and has a good amount of marbling.

Brisket: Known for its rich flavour, brisket is another excellent option. It has a higher fat content compared to chuck, 20-30%, which adds a juicy, succulent quality to burgers.

Sirloin: Sirloin is less fatty than chuck or brisket, so if one uses this, it may be best to mix it with a fattier cut to ensure burgers remain juicy.

Ribeye: For some ribeye is perfect. It is incredibly tender and marbled with fat making it a high-end choice that results in a rich, flavourful burger. Having said that, grinding meat will naturally tenderize it and as discussed below, one can add fat to leaner cuts of meat and achieve a comparable result at much less cost. For me, better to save the high end cuts for steak.

One can google recipes for different combinations of these and other cuts of meat. For example, Pat LaFrieda Meat Purveyors, a New York City institution, creates over 100 burger blends for restaurants and hotels! But while LaFrieda has combined chuck, brisket, and short rib for over a century to make its original burger blend in an effort to balance flavour and juiciness, I like to keep it simple. I generally use only chuck +/- some brisket for added flavour and extra fat if needed as discussed below.

Indeed, as Andrew Sutton is quoted in the Food and Wine article: Bookmark This: Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Burger Blends, ditch the more expensive cuts altogether. He is the head butcher at Curtis Stone’s Gwen Butcher Shop & Restaurant in Los Angeles and thinks people have a misconception that the best steak money can buy is required to make the best burgers.

“I think people make too big a deal about exactly what cut is going into ground beef….Rib eye is really delicious as a steak, but as ground beef … the flavours that you’re getting in beef are a function of muscle structure and fat content. I think it’s more important that you’re using muscles that get a lot of work and so have more flavor. And then it’s about getting the fat content right.”

Fat to Meat Ratio

The fat to meat ratio (calculated by weight) is crucial for achieving the perfect burger and is a function of a) how fatty / juicy one likes ones burger, and b) how one intends to cook it which is discussed further below.

85/15 Ratio: If you want a lean burger, but still maintain some juiciness, consider an 85% lean to 15% fat ratio.

80/20 Ratio: This is the most common ratio and a good starting point. The 80% lean meat to 20% fat ratio offers a good balance of juiciness and flavour without being greasy.

30% Fat Ratio: For those who like an exceptionally juicy flavourful burger, a 70% meat to 30% fat ratio is ideal. This is generally my favourite, but some may find this mix too rich for their liking.

How Cooking Method Informs Fat Content

How well done you like your burgers and the method you use to cook them will also guide how much fat to incorporate in your mix. If as I do, you like your burger medium-rare, you don’t need to have as much fat to keep them juicy; an 80/20 blend might work. On the other hand, cooking to medium-well, a 70/30 blend may be a better choice so some juiciness remains after a longer cook. Without casting judgement, if you are one of those who insist on well-done burgers, as they will dry out, choose a mix with a high percentage of fat, something along the lines of 60/40. That way, even with a prolonged cook, hopefully there will still be some fat remaining to provide some juiciness.

If in doubt, go for a mix with a higher fat ratio. You can’t fix a burger once it is overcooked and dry. And should you need to add some extra fat beyond what is found in the cut of meat you are grinding, just add some fat trimmings. I have found that my local butcher and even grocery store will if you ask, provide some fat trimmed from steak before it is put on display for sale. And if you buy your meat from them, they likely will throw it in for free. There might be a little math involved to work out how much to add, but the effort is well worth it.

For those not so good with math, Meathead Goldwyn mentioned above, has an excellent article on hamburgers entitled “Hamburger Secrets: How The Zen Master Prepares A Real Happy Meal Hamburger” which includes a Ground Meat Calculator.

As alluded to, the method used to cook the burger will also have a bearing on how much fat one might need / want in the hamburger mix:

Grilling: While grilling adds a delicious smoky flavour and nice crust, the intense heat can dry out a burger. Consider using a higher fat content, on the order of 30%, to counter that. Just be prepared though for flare-ups from dripping fat.

Pan-Searing: Pan-frying burgers allows more control of the cooking temperature which is typically lower than on a grill. For this reason, burgers can have a slightly lower fat content which avoids fat pooling in the pan; some suggest 10-15% fat. Regardless of the fat %, excess rendered fat can always be poured off as necessary. And using a skillet or cast-iron pan, a higher fat content of 20-30%, contributes to a beautiful sear and rich flavour.

Sous Vide: This method provides precise temperature control and is great for cooking burgers evenly and without risk of overcooking. With this method though, the burger will need to be seared to create a nice crust. But as it is already cooked, this is accomplished quickly with little risk of it drying out the burger. A lower fat content of 20-25% may be all that is needed and decreases the chance of flare-ups if using a grill or if using a pan, the pooling of fat. (For those interested, a previous post describes how to cryofry hamburger à la Modernist Cuisine using liquid nitrogen!)

Baking: At high heat, oven-baked burgers can accumulate fat similar to pan-searing. However, the pooled fat can be difficult to pour off, so a lower fat percentage like 15-20% might be best. The best way to oven bake a burger is to use low heat and then reverse sear. Like sous vide, this produces an evenly cooked and juicy burger. Unlike sous vide however, the surface is drier facilitating a nice crust when seared.

How to Grind Meat for Hamburger

Make sure your grinder is cold. You want your grinder attachment (all of it: shaft, tube, plate, die and screw) to be extremely COLD, so place it in the freezer at least 1 hour before you plan on using it. I put mine in the freezer the night before.

Make sure your meat is cold. After you cut the meat into 1’’ / 2.5 cm. cubes, spread them evenly on a baking sheet and place in the freezer until the meat starts to get firm, but not totally frozen, about 20-30 minutes. (Do you see the theme here? Cold is a must!)

Use a cold bowl to catch the ground beef. To ensure your meat remains out of the temperature “danger zone” (see * below) while you are grinding, you can fill a large mixing bowl with ice and a little water. Put another large mixing bowl inside that and position it underneath the attachment to catch the meat as it falls from the grinder. Work quickly, but if your meat or grinder become too warm just re-chill them as needed by putting them back into the freezer for another 10-15 minutes.

*The "Danger Zone" (40 °F-140 °F)

Bacteria grow most rapidly in the range of temperatures between 40 ° and 140 °F, doubling in number in as little as 20 minutes. This range of temperatures is often called the "Danger Zone." That's why the Meat and Poultry Hotline advises consumers to never leave food out of refrigeration over 2 hours. If the temperature is above 90 °F, food should not be left out more than 1 hour.

Run the meat through the grinder twice. While there may not be uniform agreement on this (see more below), I like to run the meat through the grinder twice, first with a coarser disk and then a slightly finer disk. Smashed burgers benefit especially from this treatment as the finer grind provides lots of surface area to create a beautiful crust.

Shape burger patties gently. When forming your burgers DO NOT compact the patties too tightly. While not necessary if cooking sous vide, making a small dimple in the centre of the burger with your finger or thumb helps prevent “burger bulge” when cooking.

Keep your burger patties cold. To be on the safe side, you can place your formed burgers onto a sheet pan and place them in the freezer as you form them.

Choosing the Right Grinder Plate Hole Size

The size of the grinder plate holes is a crucial factor in determining the resulting texture of your hamburger. As noted above there is no universally agreed to method, Len Dennis a frequent poster on the Virtual Weber Bulletin Board the following suggestion if you have a selection of plates:

1) grind all your meat with the 1/4". THEN break off a burger size piece, cook it and see how you like it.

2)if not, grind HALF of the remaining lot with the next size plate. Mix it up by hand. Break off a piece etc.

3)if not, grind all of the rest with the plate used in #2, break off a piece, etc

Repeat in small steps till you find what you like”

If you aren’t up to experimenting, here is the “conventional wisdom” with respect to grinding plate size:

Coarse Plate (about 10-12 mm): A coarse plate creates larger, more textured meat particles ideal for a chunky burger. Coarse grinding helps retain more fat and flavour and yields a more fluffy burger that falls apart as you bite

Medium Plate (about 6-8 mm): A medium plate is the most versatile and commonly used for burgers. It creates a balanced texture that's neither too coarse nor too fine. This size is ideal for the majority of burger recipes, providing a uniform texture that holds together well while still offering a juicy bite.

Fine Plate (about 3-4 mm): A fine plate produces a smoother, more uniform grind. While this can be useful for other preparations like sausages, it may result in too compact a patty which can be less juicy. However, it can be useful if a) mixing in ingredients as it allows for better incorporation and flavour distribution, b) pan seared smash burgers as the finer the grind creates more surface area exposed to the griddle creating more of a crust, and c) I like it for grinding pellicle from dry-aged beef which being tough, benefits from a finer grind.

Adding Pellicle from Dry-Aged Beef

Due to dry aged meats intense flavour and tenderness, some chefs advocate adding ground DA steak to ones hamburger mix. There is no need though. One can get much of the same benefit from using the pellicle which one might have otherwise thrown out. It contains concentrated DA flavours and has a unique texture that really elevates burgers to another level while saving that special DA steak for another day; it’s a win win!

Benefits of Adding Pellicle:

Enhanced Flavor: The pellicle is rich in umami and has developed deep, complex flavours during the dry-aging process adding an extra layer of savoury richness.
Improved Texture: The dried texture of the pellicle can add a slight chewiness and improve a burger’s overall texture creating a more interesting mouthfeel.
Unique Character: Using pellicle can give burgers a distinctive, gourmet touch.

How to Incorporate Pellicle: Some prefer to grind the pellicle, meat, and any additional fat altogether. If only grinding once, I find this can create an uneven distribution of ingredients so I suggest grinding twice. Many would argue otherwise that this isn’t necessary though. Just be sure to chop the pellicle into small pieces. As to how much pellicle to add, use a 4:1 ratio of fresh meat to pellicle.

My preferred way though is to grind the meat and fat together and then after grinding the pellicle, mix everything together by hand to ensure an even distribution. One can as I prefer grind it all a second time before forming ones patties.

Conclusion

Grinding your own hamburger meat might take a bit of effort, but the results are well worth it. By choosing the right cuts, determining the perfect fat content for your preferred cooking method, selecting the appropriate grinder plate size, and adding a touch of dry-aged beef pellicle, you can create burgers that are both flavorful and juicy. Whether you’re cooking for a family dinner or hosting a backyard BBQ, your homemade patties will undoubtedly be the highlight of the meal.

Happy grinding, and here’s to delicious burgers!